Food
The Wild Pizzas of Southern Italy Have to Be Seen to Be Believed
A restaurant critic and two chefs go on a pie-in-the-sky adventure to find exactly how far you can stretch the idea of pizza.
Pizzas at Di Gesù, a popular bakery in Altamura, Puglia.
Photographer: Carol Sachs for Bloomberg Businessweek
When do dough, tomato sauce, and mozzarella stop being mere ingredients and become pizza?
It’s a philosophical question that has divided chefs and diners for decades. For some, only pies in the Neapolitan and Roman styles are acceptable—Sicilian, at a stretch. Others extend the goal posts as far as Chicago deep dish.