Food
Doughnuts Are on a Global Rampage, and They Must Be Stopped
We love doughnuts. That's why we must save them from themselves.
This article is for subscribers only.
Doughnuts, you have gone too far.
Not long ago, we were your biggest champions. We cheered when you evolved into the scrumptious, flakey cronut, and when you multiplied up and down the West Coast through the Blue Star chain, which brought slick, beautiful rings from Portland, Ore., to Los Angeles. We welcomed such top tier bakeries as Dough in New York; Union Square Donuts in Boston; District Doughnuts in Washington; Curiosity Donuts in New Jersey; and Federal Donuts in Philadelphia. They were making versions of you that were airy, yet were rich, gorgeously glazed, and garnished.