Food
Why Salt Has Disappeared From Restaurant Tables
Good luck seasoning your food these days.
It should be a triumphant time for salt in New York. The biggest restaurant opening of the year has been that of Nusr-Et, better known as Salt Bae. It’s named for chef Nusret Gökçe, who accumulated 13 million Instagram followers—and the nickname Salt Bae—for his theatrical method of seasoning steaks.
Meanwhile, sugar has replaced salt to reign again as the most polarizing item in your pantry. (See: New York State Senate Bill S162, which proposes safety warnings for sugar-sweetened drinks.)